Tech Articles
Alfa Winter Storage Tips PDF Print E-mail
Written by Administrator   
Monday, 24 October 2011 01:57
6
Proper winter storage for our Alfas is a topic that
comes up each autumn. We went to the best source
of information we know, a person who has made a
decades-long study and career of long-term storage
and preservation of collector cars and motorbikes.
Betty Schoepke pulled her Montreal out of storage
after ten years. The paint, trim rubber, exhaust, even
the brake rotors looked the same as when the car
went into its unheated, dirt-floor barn in Michigan.
The outside of the zipped-up protective cover had
piles of debris left by birds and rodents, but the
inside remained pristine. A couple of small rust blisters
under the paint plus usage wear that were present
before storage did not heal themselves (darn!),
but aging had completely stopped for the 1971 Alfa.
After 26 years, those rust blisters are still small, the
same, and under the paint. “This car is actually
exactly the same, in every respect, as the day we
bought it 26 years ago” said John Schoepke.
Information on obtaining a CarJacket® is included
later in this article.
Three things are needed to produce the same
results (hopefully without the bird and rodent dung)
and keep your Alfa preserved until next spring:
preparation, preventive maintenance and proper
storage.
Repair and Maintenance
• Dean Russell, a local mechanic who has worked
exclusively on Alfas for over thirty years, will tell
anyone who asks that autumn maintenance is critical
for prevention of problems next spring. The
time to get repairs done and have everything
checked out is before sealing the car away.
Winter (or other long-term) Storage Prep
• Add a gas stabilizer like Sta-Bil.
• Wash and detail the car, preferably including seats,
carpets, truck, engine compartment, everything.
Treat leather and vinyl surfaces.
• Drive the car to remove any standing water that
gets trapped in the hidden areas. Do not drive on
wet roads or even wet grass just before storing.
• If your Alfa has air conditioning, some experts say
to run the air conditioner for 10-to-15 minutes on
that last autumn drive to help moving parts get
lubricant circulated so the seals will not dry out.
Betty suggests not running the a/c 24 hours prior
to storage because the evaporator may continue
to drip water. Dry any damp areas that you might
spot. Perhaps you have noticed a moldy odor
when first turning on the a/c the following year.
This is because the unit can cause moisture to
form in part of the vent system, promoting mold
growth. Shut off the air and run the ventilation fan
for the last 10 to 15 minutes of a drive to help dry
the vent system.
• Apply silicone lubricant or WD-40 to door and
trunk seals.
• Mice, red squirrels, chipmunks and other rodents
will chew anything. Mothballs on small paper plates
might help, but are not 100 percent effective. It is
100 percent certain that the car is going to smell
of mothballs for a long time. Bounce fabric sheets
have been reported to repel mice from car interiors,
but others have said that mice merely make a
nest with it. I side with the latter group.
• Spray a bit of fabric deodorizer where it should not
stain if left for months, such as on both floor mats.
• Drain some of the windshield washer fluid if the
container is full, because it often freezes at approximately
minus-10 degrees F and there is no sense
having a split bottle or bag.
• Repair any fluid leaks. Especially check fuel tank,
fuel lines, radiator, water hoses and windshield
washer system. If you find leaks, repair or make
an appointment with a mechanic before storing.
• Top off other fluids under the hood.
• Check the anti-freeze with an instrument or by age
(change every-other year) and adjust as needed.
• One debated item is use of an “oil fog spray” in the
cylinders. Spray cans of this are made just for
engine storage. The idea is to keep a coat of oil
film on all the internal engine parts to coat everything
in the cylinders so that moisture cannot
reach the metal. This is good for an engine stored
for years. For one season, it is more likely for corrosion
to occur inside an engine from contaminants in
the oil, such as acids, not moisture. Probably the
best thing to do for winter is change the oil, run the
engine to circulate the new oil, then just leave it.
• If the battery is not sealed, fill the battery cells with
distilled water (not tap water). Remove the battery
and clean with a baking soda and water mixture.
Connect it to a battery tender (computer chip on
the battery tender senses when the battery is fully
charged, turning off the charger) or a trickle charger.
The old rule of never storing a battery on concrete
Winter Storage Tips For Your Alfa Dave Hammond
does not apply to modern battery case materials.
Still, it won't hurt to get it off the cold concrete.
• Inflate the tires to 10 PSI over the maximum rating.
This helps deter flat spots caused by the tires sitting.
Some fanatics (mostly Porsche owners) advise
removing all four wheels and jacking up the car on
blocks, but that is extreme and we have not heard
of even one car having a problem with leaving the
wheels and tires on.
• While you are at it, sweep floor and check tires to
remove stones and grit that could damage the
CarJacket™ enclosure. If floor is not smooth, place
tarp or other padding under Jacket. Sweep the
garage floor and lay down a plastic tarp. If using a
standard car cover, do the same because concrete
gets damp in the winter, but a plastic sheet or tarp
will keep much of the moisture away.
• Cushion the wiper blade arms with a rag to keep
the blades from deforming against the glass.
• Store your vehicle in the Jacket enclosure during
low humidity. Mid-afternoon on a dry day is best.
Use A CarJacket
Spread out the unzipped Jacket on the garage
floor, drive or push your Alfa onto it, then zip the
Jacket shut. When it’s time to take your Alfa out and
back into the real world, there’s no rust, no aging.
That is not just slogan, but a guarantee: The car
comes out from storage as perfect, in every respect,
as when stored or your money back. Simple as that.
No one paid for mentioning this product and it is
described here only because I know that it preserves
automobiles and bikes, which is pretty amazing considering
Michigan winters.
When your CarJacket is not storing an Alfa, it can
help preserve
parts, (or furniture,
a piano, almost
anything that could
use protection from
light and humidity).
John and Betty
Schoepke (Pine
Ridge) have been
doing this since
1984. Our Duetto,
which we have
kept for 25 years,
is going to be
zipped into one
this mid-November.
Here is the Pine
Ridge contact information:
Pine Ridge Enterprise
13165 Center Road
Bath, MI 48808
www.carbag.com
1-800-522-7224
By the way, the CarJacket is not for use outdoors,
with aging spouses or Keith Richards. And if your Alfa
goes in looking like a rusted recycling project, it will
come out looking as bad as it did before. Sorry, the
Schoepkes are car storage experts, not magicians.
The Next Day
With many insurance policies, call to suspend parts
of your insurance while the car sits in the garage
(keep the theft and damage coverage). They might
insist that the license plate be removed for the winter.
If you need to take the car somewhere for repairs
during storage, call and have the coverage restored
for one day. I have done this with State Farm and
other companies will likely do the same. If your car
is over 25 years old and you can live with some
restrictions, you might want to look into historic
vehicle plates and collector car insurance.
After unzipping the jacket, check the tire pressure
and return to normal. Start the car, take it slow and
easy until the oil and coolant reach normal operating
temperatures, then drive it in the normal Alfa
fashion for another ten minutes.
Note: A freshly painted vehicle should not be
bagged. Fresh paint should be properly dried/cured
two to three months before storing a car or bike in
any carbag
Standard Car Cover Instructions
If using a standard car cover, follow the above
advice, plus:
Fill the gas tank. The idea is to have the smallest
air gap in the tank because temperature changes
will cause condensation to form.
Stuff a cloth into the airbox intake and push a rag
into the end of the exhaust pipes to keep out mice,
then leave a note attached to the steering wheel
reminding you to remove it next spring before
cranking over the engine.
Roll the car ¼ to ½ turn 3 to 4 times per winter to
ensure the rotors don’t stick to the pads and work
the pedals Keep windows down half way to keep
condensation and moisture from collecting in the
car. Do NOT set the ventilation selector to ‘recirculate.’
Leaving it selected to “vent/floor” will allow for
air to expand and contract in and out of the car.
If using a standard car cover, keep the parking
brake off to avoid having the pads rust to the rotors
(not necessary if using a CarJacket because there will
not be any rust), and put the transmission in gear.
7
Proper winter storage for our Alfas is a topic that comes up each autumn. We went to the best source of information we know, a person who has made a decades-long study and career of long-term storage and preservation of collector cars and motorbikes. Betty Schoepke pulled her Montreal out of storage after ten years. The paint, trim rubber, exhaust, even the brake rotors looked the same as when the car went into its unheated, dirt-floor barn in Michigan. The outside of the zipped-up protective cover had piles of debris left by birds and rodents, but the inside remained pristine. A couple of small rust blisters under the paint plus usage wear that were present before storage did not heal themselves (darn!), but aging had completely stopped for the 1971 Alfa. After 26 years, those rust blisters are still small, the same, and under the paint.
“This car is actually exactly the same, in every respect, as the day we bought it 26 years ago” said John Schoepke.
Information on obtaining a CarJacket® is included later in this article.
Three things are needed to produce the same results (hopefully without the bird and rodent dung) and keep your Alfa preserved until next spring:
preparation, preventive maintenance and proper storage.
Repair and Maintenance
• Dean Russell, a local mechanic who has worked exclusively on Alfas for over thirty years, will tell anyone who asks that autumn maintenance is critical for prevention of problems next spring. The time to get repairs done and have everything checked out is before sealing the car away.
Winter (or other long-term) Storage Prep
• Add a gas stabilizer like Sta-Bil.
• Wash and detail the car, preferably including seats, carpets, truck, engine compartment, everything. Treat leather and vinyl surfaces.
• Drive the car to remove any standing water that gets trapped in the hidden areas. Do not drive on wet roads or even wet grass just before storing.
• If your Alfa has air conditioning, some experts say to run the air conditioner for 10-to-15 minutes on that last autumn drive to help moving parts get lubricant circulated so the seals will not dry out. Betty suggests not running the a/c 24 hours prior to storage because the evaporator may continue to drip water. Dry any damp areas that you might spot. Perhaps you have noticed a moldy odor when first turning on the a/c the following year. This is because the unit can cause moisture to form in part of the vent system, promoting mold growth. Shut off the air and run the ventilation fan for the last 10 to 15 minutes of a drive to help dry the vent system.
• Apply silicone lubricant or WD-40 to door and trunk seals.
• Mice, red squirrels, chipmunks and other rodents will chew anything. Mothballs on small paper plates might help, but are not 100 percent effective. It is 100 percent certain that the car is going to smell of mothballs for a long time. Bounce fabric sheets have been reported to repel mice from car interiors, but others have said that mice merely make a nest with it. I side with the latter group.
• Spray a bit of fabric deodorizer where it should not stain if left for months, such as on both floor mats.
• Drain some of the windshield washer fluid if the container is full, because it often freezes at approximately minus-10 degrees F and there is no sense having a split bottle or bag.
• Repair any fluid leaks. Especially check fuel tank, fuel lines, radiator, water hoses and windshield washer system. If you find leaks, repair or make an appointment with a mechanic before storing.
• Top off other fluids under the hood.
• Check the anti-freeze with an instrument or by age (change every-other year) and adjust as needed.
• One debated item is use of an “oil fog spray” in the cylinders. Spray cans of this are made just for engine storage. The idea is to keep a coat of oil film on all the internal engine parts to coat everything in the cylinders so that moisture cannot reach the metal. This is good for an engine stored for years. For one season, it is more likely for corrosion to occur inside an engine from contaminants in the oil, such as acids, not moisture. Probably the best thing to do for winter is change the oil, run the engine to circulate the new oil, then just leave it.
• If the battery is not sealed, fill the battery cells with distilled water (not tap water). Remove the battery and clean with a baking soda and water mixture. Connect it to a battery tender (computer chip on the battery tender senses when the battery is fully charged, turning off the charger) or a trickle charger. The old rule of never storing a battery on concrete Winter Storage Tips For Your Alfa Dave Hammond does not apply to modern battery case materials. Still, it won't hurt to get it off the cold concrete.
• Inflate the tires to 10 PSI over the maximum rating.  This helps deter flat spots caused by the tires sitting.  Some fanatics (mostly Porsche owners) advise  removing all four wheels and jacking up the car on  blocks, but that is extreme and we have not heard  of even one car having a problem with leaving the  wheels and tires on.
• While you are at it, sweep floor and check tires to  remove stones and grit that could damage theCarJacket™ enclosure. If floor is not smooth, place tarp or other padding under Jacket. Sweep the garage floor and lay down a plastic tarp. If using a standard car cover, do the same because concrete gets damp in the winter, but a plastic sheet or tarp will keep much of the moisture away.
• Cushion the wiper blade arms with a rag to keep the blades from deforming against the glass.
• Store your vehicle in the Jacket enclosure during low humidity. Mid-afternoon on a dry day is best.  Use A CarJacket  Spread out the unzipped Jacket on the garage
floor, drive or push your Alfa onto it, then zip the  jacket shut. When it’s time to take your Alfa out and back into the real world, there’s no rust, no aging. That is not just slogan, but a guarantee: The car comes out from storage as perfect, in every respect, as when stored or your money back. Simple as that. No one paid for mentioning this product and it is described here only because I know that it preserves automobiles and bikes, which is pretty amazing considering Michigan winters.
When your CarJacket is not storing an Alfa, it can help preserve parts, (or furniture, a piano, almost anything that could use protection from light and humidity).
John and Betty Schoepke (Pine Ridge) have been doing this since 1984. Our Duetto, which we have kept for 25 years, is going to be zipped into one this mid-November.
Here is the Pine Ridge contact information:
Pine Ridge Enterprise
13165 Center Road
Bath, MI 48808
www.carbag.com
1-800-522-7224
By the way, the CarJacket is not for use outdoors, with aging spouses or Keith Richards. And if your Alfa goes in looking like a rusted recycling project, it will come out looking as bad as it did before. Sorry, the Schoepkes are car storage experts, not magicians.
The Next Day
With many insurance policies, call to suspend parts of your insurance while the car sits in the garage (keep the theft and damage coverage). They might insist that the license plate be removed for the winter.  If you need to take the car somewhere for repairs during storage, call and have the coverage restored for one day. I have done this with State Farm and other companies will likely do the same. If your car is over 25 years old and you can live with some restrictions, you might want to look into historic
vehicle plates and collector car insurance.
After unzipping the jacket, check the tire pressure and return to normal. Start the car, take it slow and easy until the oil and coolant reach normal operating temperatures, then drive it in the normal Alfa fashion for another ten minutes.
Note: A freshly painted vehicle should not be bagged. Fresh paint should be properly dried/cured two to three months before storing a car or bike in any carbag
Standard Car Cover Instructions
If using a standard car cover, follow the above advice, plus:
Fill the gas tank. The idea is to have the smallest air gap in the tank because temperature changes will cause condensation to form.  Stuff a cloth into the airbox intake and push a rag into the end of the exhaust pipes to keep out mice, then leave a note attached to the steering wheel reminding you to remove it next spring before cranking over the engine.
Roll the car ¼ to ½ turn 3 to 4 times per winter to ensure the rotors don’t stick to the pads and work the pedals Keep windows down half way to keep condensation and moisture from collecting in the car. Do NOT set the ventilation selector to ‘recirculate.’  Leaving it selected to “vent/floor” will allow for air to expand and contract in and out of the car.
If using a standard car cover, keep the parking brake off to avoid having the pads rust to the rotors (not necessary if using a CarJacket because there will not be any rust), and put the transmission in gear.
 
Spider Maintenence PDF Print E-mail
Written by Administrator   
Friday, 08 July 2011 17:24

by Paul Spruell in The Alfaholic – newsletter of the Deep South Alfa Romeo Club
Identifying Common Problems

It seems every time I see a spider I see the same problems. Some of them the owners are aware of and others are not so obvious. In an effort to make life better for all spider owners
new and old I have compiled a list of common spider ailments. Next time you are under the hood or under the car, you might take a look at these things and see what you find. I am not going to give the procedures for fixing or replacing these items but I will give some easy diagnostics so you can tell what is right and what is wrong.

Bent Clutch Pivot Arm
The number one thing I find on spiders old and new is a bent clutch pivot arm. Most owners are not even aware there is a problem. The first signs are a low clutch pedal. Your brake and clutch pedals should line up. If the clutch pedal is low, then the arm is bent. What most people do is adjust the length of the rod coming
out the back of the clutch master cylinder. This is the wrong solution. It will buy some time but will not solve the problem. If your car has already had the rod adjusted then what you will find is the clutch disengages when the pedal is close to the floor. Eventually two things will happen: The adjustable rod will run out of adjustment and the clutch will not disengage even with the pedal pushed to the floor. This is a bad way to drive. If the arm is bent you can get replacement arms from all the major parts
suppliers. The new ones are not OEM and they are generally guaranteed to be bend-free for life.

Worn Throttle Linkage
Worn out throttle linkages are not a safety hazard on your Alfa, but they sure can suck the fun out of the car. When I discovered mine were worn out, I was only getting half throttle with the pedal to the floor. After I made the fix the car came to life. It was like getting a bunch of horsepower for free. This check is really easy to do. Get yourself a buddy or some other device to hold the gas pedal to the floor. Then from the engine compartment grab the throttle and attempt to open it further. There is a throttle stop for wide open throttle that will tell you how much wear is in your linkage. If the wear is not so bad then maybe you can adjust the threaded rods in the linkage to take up the slack. But if you are only getting half throttle or less, then you need new end links in your linkage. They come in two flavors: metal or plastic . The S3 spiders came with plastic . I think the SPICA cars came with metal. They both work on all cars. If you need things to be concours original then get whatever is correct for your car. If you never want to do this job again get the metal. Be sure to lube up the ball ends before you snap the new ones in place.

License plate Lamps
This fix is for S3 spiders. Maybe S4 cars too, not sure. Under the rear lip of the trunk lid there are three license plate lights. With the trunk
closed turn on your parking lights or headlights. Either will do. My guess is you have one, maybe two of them working. They fail for several reasons. Obviously the bulbs could be burned out.
The contacts where the trunk lid meets the body could be oxidized or unplugged or misaligned or even missing. The most likely reason for a light failure here is a corroded socket. If you take the lights out you will probably find them rusty and corroded and quite nasty. You can figure out what to do next.

Radiator Corrosion
Ok, this next one is new for me, but if you look hard enough you might just find it on just about every spider on the road: radiator wear
through. I am not talking about rubbing on the body or some other mechanical wear. I am talking about corrosion on the inside slowly eating away at the metal until it becomes so thin coolant can pass through it. Typically this happens at joints or corners. The tell tale signs are green or white crusty build up along a seam or other place it can run and collect. Maybe once
or twice you can get a radiator shop to cut off and braze back on the area in question, but after a while you will be chasing too many leaks to fix. If you are lucky and drive a pre-VVT spider you can get your radiator if you can write the check. If you drive an L-jet spider you have to make a bunch of phone calls and might be able to find one or two new radiators left in the country on a back shelf somewhere.
The parts people I spoke to said they got one L-jet radiator a year from Italy and it sells the moment they get it. Good luck.

Vacuum Advance Module (Series 3 Spiders)
Ok, here is another S3 spider problem. Do you ever hear a whistling coming from behind the passenger seat? I bet you do. That sound is a blown out bellows inside the vacuum advance
module. There is no way to repair these. Just
get a used one that does not whistle or buy a new one.

Worn Distributor Bearings
This next one has befallen several spiders in recent years. I think ‘80s model cars are going to see it more and more in the future. But if you drive an older or newer model you might want
to check it out just to be safe. This problem is worn out distributor bearings. Specifically the top one. They have no source of lubrication and slowly, with heat and use, the grease makes its
way down the dizzy shaft and out of the bearing. Any good starter/alternator shop should be able to fix it for you. Check it out and be sure it is right before you end up stuck on the side of
the road with a stripped rotor spinning freely inside the cap.

Trunnion Washer
Trunnion washers are an item your car either needs or has had replaced. There is no other way around it. You or a previous owner has done the replacement, or you need to do it now. Take a gander under the back of the car and follow the trunnion arm from the differential up to where it hits either side of the body. There should be a thick rubber/plastic washer between the arm and the body to help locate it. This keeps your rear axle from sliding left and right in the corners. There are few things more
disconcerting than steering into a corner and finding the car pointed some other direction on the way back out. Get poly washers for the replacement and you will never have to do it again.

Fuses
Electricity is what makes everything in our cars work. You can argue gasoline is what drives the car but I doubt very seriously you will get very far without those spark plugs. The electricity is distributed throughout your car by the fuse box. Unless you have a late model car with modern blade fuses, you are stuck with the old school ceramic fuses. If you want to save yourself some trouble, make time each year to clean and tighten all the fuse holders. I use dielectric grease when I am done to be sure the oxidation is limited in the future. Also be sure to tighten
up the holders. I have one fuse that gets so hot it warps a little bit and gets loose in the holder. By making them all tighter you can avoid twitchy electrics or even a visit to the side of the
road.

Old Hoses
Rubber gets old with age and heat and oxidation. If you pop the hood on a S3 spider you will be staring at a lot of rubber. If the rubber has a braided outer layer then it is as old as your car. Take some measurements and go to the store and get some new hoses. Your car will thank you.

S3 Flywheel Position Sensor
Another S3 specific wear and tear item is the flywheel position sensors. They tell the computers the engine is running so it can do stuff like fire the injectors or spark plugs. They have an
integral insulation to prevent signal loss. Over time the insulation breaks down and eventually your car will not run. The test is easy to do and can be found in your shop manual. You can get

new sensors at any auto parts store. If your sensors are out of spec, even just a little, they are on their way out.You may be good for now, but eventually you will be shaking your head on
the side of the road.

Slow Windshield Wipers
Slow, slower, and slowest. What am I describing? The windshield wipers. Raise your hand if you avoid driving your spider in the rain. Ok, so a leaky top might be part of why you keep your
car dry, but that is not the only reason I am sure. Despite the persistent rumors, your wipers did not come from the factory that way. If you want them to be awesome once more, you need to
disassemble the linkage and clean and lubricate
everything. You even need to take apart the motor and lube it up. Also check the joints on the arms used when you pull the wipers away from the windshield. Those rivets get worn and
loose. This can cause chatter when the wipers are used. I think replacement is the only solution for that one.

Silent Horn
Beep, beep! Do your horns work? They are positioned low on the front of the car and absorb a lot of moisture when you drive in the wet. When you use your horn you should hear two tones. They are high and low. The horns tend to need a good cleaning at the mounting point and the electrical connection. My horns rarely get used. It is always a surprise when you need them and nothing happens. Keep them clean and happy so they will be there in case of emergency.

Brass Exhaust Manifold Nuts
Last but not least, grab a 13mm wrench and tighten those exhaust manifold nuts. They are made of brass and tend to get loose over time. Every 6 months or so give them a good tug and
you will never lose one. If yours are not brass, get some. The major parts suppliers have them but your local hardware store might as well. They are important because the brass does not
get rusted in place the same as steel nuts. Unfortunately the same properties that make them so easy to remove also make them get loose from time to time.

This concludes my list of items requiring attention on most spiders. You may have things to add.

Please send an email ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ) if you think I missed a major item. I do not know much about SPICA cars so maybe they have some different components.
These items are the sort of things I look for first on any spider I buy, and are the things I find most when someone has a problem with their own spider. Hope this is helpful to everyone.
Good luck!

 

Last Updated ( Friday, 08 July 2011 19:24 )
 
Technical Articles PDF Print E-mail
Written by Dave Hammond   
Monday, 11 May 2009 13:56

Click on the following to get downloadable PDF's

164 Cooling Fan

Ask an Expert 1

Model Identification

Giulietta 6 Fuse Box Cover

Winter Prep and Storage

105 Series Fuel Tanks

Choosing Wheels and Tires

No Lead Fuel in Alfas

 

 

Last Updated ( Friday, 22 May 2009 14:38 )